Welcome to one of the more obscure countries on this planet, one of its last remaining absolute monarchies, and a nation forging its own path on the island of Borneo: Brunei Darussalam. Once a thriving empire, its influence has declined over the centuries, but natural resources meant its population of less than half a million people now enjoys a very high living standard. I spent a few days here, including New Years Eve, which in Brunei is just like any other evening - that may be an odd choice for some, but I had a burger for dinner and was in bed by 11pm, perfect start into 2023.

The Capital

My starting point was the capital, Bandar Seri Begawan (ever heard of it?). A walk the centre around reveals… not too much, but there are some interesting places and local life to observe.

Royal Regalia

Royal Regalia Museum

One of the more peculiar museums I've had the chance to visit, it holds a few interesting sights, including a lot of interesting gifts from visiting politicians….

Exhibits

...but also a lifesize replica of the coronation procession.

Grandeur

And this replica of the main stateroom in the Sultan's residential palace.

... which is in fact far form life-sized ;)

Welcome

The entrance hall features the carriage of the coronation, as well as many other of the regalia and a model of Royal Brunei's first aircraft.

The Main Sight

The city’s most recognisable landmark, and arguably its most beautiful, is the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, serving as the symbol of the Islamic faith in Brunei.

In fact, a dedicated frame was set up for people to take photos with it in the nearby park on the shores of the Sungai Kedayan river.

Landmark of Brunei

Although it looks relatively modern and is well-maintained, it was completed in 1958 and is named after Omar Ali Saifuddien III, the father of the current ruler. The barge (Mahligai) on the lagoon surrounding the lake was added around 10 years later, resembling a ship of Sultan Bolkiah, the 16th century ruler of the empire.

Dome

Its golden dome reaches 52m in the air and is covered in gold.

In Sight

It's visible throughout the city, such as here from the market square in the courtyard of Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Shopping Complex.

Colours

When I arrived to the mosque the first time, I was greeted by this rainbow, which unfortunately faded within a few minutes, giving me only the chance to get one or two shots. The mosque’s architectural features carry Mughal influences.

Interior

The inside of the mosque can be visited and is dominated by the large chandeliers and Axminster carpets.

While Islam is the primary religion in the country, freedom of faith is permitted by the constitution, with some limitations. The buddhist temple of Teng Yun is one of the most prominent non-Muslim religious buildings.

Spot the Lizard

Local Bakery

Looking south over the Brunei river reveals a bridge called Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha Bridge - I’m glad they kept the name simple for every day directions. It is the second-longest single-pylon cable bridge in the world and 157m tall. I couldn’t help but notice that the golden dome closely resembled the one on Saifuddien Mosque.

The night market at Gadong with its variety of multicultural street food - Brunei has to import 60% of its needs. The biggest ethnic group is Malay, making up over 60% of the population, and only a very small portion of indigenous people. The balance is a mix of origins, including a large number of expats.

Jalan Roberts

The most photogenic street in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan they say - for better or worse, it seemed to be true.

Dewan Bahasa Dan Pustaka Mural

The 30m mural from 1965 higlights some of the country's history and culture.

The Big Wall

Made by local artists, this mural features the national flower Bunga Simpur and scenes from the floating village of Kampung Ayer, more on that below.

Moon & Star

The Department of Syariah Affairs, responsible for managing Sharia law in the country.

In Position

Can never resist when I spot our celestial friend up there!

Kampong Ayer

On the Shore

Walking along the Brunei river in Bandar Seri Begawan, one can always spot a large group of houses, seemingly on the opposite shores. In fact though, the settlement of Kampong Ayer is a water village said to have existed in one way or the other for over 500 years.

Transport

Unsurprisingly it is primarily reachable by boat, with many small operators crossing back and forth constantly. Once there, wooden walkways on stilts (without guardrails) serve as walkways.

Leftover

It's not uncommon that some parts of the town are abandoned or dismantled as the wooden foundations deterioate in the water, leaving behind an unusued boat bus station such as this one.

In fact though, a large portion of the village is as busy as ever, and includes floating mosques, schools, gyms and more.

In Good Shape

The infrastructure is constantly maintained and upgraded - running water, sewage, electricity etc are available.

Or Not

Although not everything is so well maintained. This house had collapsed in a storm a few weeks earlier - luckily the occupants were aware of the risk, left, and no one was injured.

Expansion

Nevertheless the water village is expanding. In some of its adminstrative areas new modern housing is being built.

Found

Obligatory (very very small) cat photo.

More City Sights

Trusty Driver

It's not so easy to find taxis in the city, and some parts of it are spread out quite a bit beyond the centre, so I had a driver for a day (who knew how to counter the humidity).

Jame 'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque

Size

The largest mosque in the country, able to hold 5000 worshippers and named after the current Sultan, opened in 1994.

Golden

The mosque has 29 golden domes (dedicated to the 29th and current Sultan), regularly polished and refurbished (see the scaffolding on the earlier photo).

Patterns

It is surrounded by trees and small gardens.

Ash Shaliheen Mosque

Yet another mosque - they are some of the most interesting attractions in Brunei. This one is said to follow Moroccan style, and was designed by an Egyptian architect. It’s possible to visit, and the interior courtyard with its retractable roof is worth seeing. It’s also located in the government district, which featuring a number of peculiar architectural styles for the various ministries and offices.

Balai Khazanah Islam Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah

This rather unusual building is not in fact a mosque, despite its minaret-like towers. It is however a museum and gallery filled with islamic art.

Unfortunately I couldn’t make it in time to go inside and visit, but it houses a large collection of manuscripts and artworks, for instance. The exterior was likely equally fascinating to me though.

Palaces

A strange and seemingly abandoned building can be seen from certain angles in Brunei - this place was allegedly built for the Sultan's ex-wife, but stopped after the divorce. Its status is unclear, but it is said the interior is almost complete and follows similar architectural approach as the outside - a mix of classic European and Russian styles.

Record Breaking

The actual palace of the Sultan of Brunei, called Istana Nurul Iman or the Light of Faith, is on yet another level - it is considered the largest residential palace and single family building in the world. The cost at its completion in 1984 was USD 1.5Bn, with a floor space area of over 200,000 sqm - it contains 1,788 rooms, of which 257 are bathrooms. It also houses the banquet room seen as a model in the Royal Regalia museum. The palace is also home to the infamous car collection of the Sultan and his brother (a whole different character, worth reading up on). Most of those cars are said to slowly fall into decay due to the lack of care these days, but no one knows for sure.

In Front

The Palace is not open to the public, except during a few days on Eid ul Fitr at the end of Ramadan, when parts are made accessible. Other than on those days, the entrance gate is the only part you can see - shown here.

The Former Palace

This is especially interesting given that the royal palace in use until 1951 was this house, at a cost of 5000 USD at the time. Brunei's wealth stems from oil and gas, which are its largest (and almost only) exports.

And Further Around

Frankly, there isn’t toooo much to see beyond the city boundaries, but there are a few nice beaches and several rivers in the largely untapped forest. Unlike much of the rest of Borneo, which is part of Malaysia and Indonesia, Brunei’s portion hasn’t been tapped for Palm Oil and other plantations. These photos were taken from the shores of the The Empire Brunei hotel, the country’s only real high end luxury property, 20min from the city.

Proboscis Monkey

The rivers and forests are also where you can spot one of Borneo's most famous endemic species - the endangered Proboscis monkey.

Features

Their long noses make them look quite peculiar. I had seen them in the Indonesian parts of Borneo (blog upcoming), so didn't spend too much time exploring the rivers aside from a short morning boat ride where we spotted a few individuals.

Bye Brunei

And that's it from one of the world's smaller and stranger countries - which made it an all the more enjoyable visit.

The Abode of Peace - Brunei