A Belgian Roadtrip
In April 2023 (yes, it’s been a while and I still have some backlog of more places…) it was time for another short roadtrip through Europe, following trips to Luxembourg, San Marino, Slovenia, and a few more places over the years. This time, the German Autobahn took us to Belgium, with a plan to see some of the most well-known cities and sights in this not-so-large country famous for beers, fries, and waffles - what’s not to like (well - beer for me, but the rest is highly appreciated)!
The goal was rather ambitious. In just four days, we wanted to cover three cities and three sights around them. For this reason, I apologise in advance that this blog may lack a bit of a coherent story as I try to capture some essence of all these places…
Sight No. 1
On the way to Brussels we stopped here, at the “Reading Between the Lines” church, or “Doorkijkkerk”, part of an art installation in the area. The structure is made of steel and 10m tall and was completed in 2011.
Seeing Through
The church with the actual church of the nearby town of Borgloon. Whatever the symbolic meaning of this installation is meant to be, I might have rated it higher during sunrise or sunset from a visual point of view, but alas, time was short.
Brussels
We arrived in Brussels - or rather, the City of Brussels in the namesake region - located pretty much in the centre of the country after an (unintentional!) drive along a few very questionable roads, where the windows were glowing red, daylight or not be damned.
The Grand Place
The 15th century gothic town hall on the main square during a quiet early morning. It’s a Unesco World Heritage site. There is a distinct lack of symmetry of the front arches, the tower, and the facade, and legend has it the architect committed suicide after discovering this issue, but the reality was probably rooted in pragmatic choices during the build phases rather than a mistake.
Although the town hall is the only remaining medieval structure of the Grand-Place, its neighbours are equally architecturally interesting - many of these baroque buildings are in fact private houses, while others are guild halls.
Brussels City Museum
Situated opposite the City Hall.
Facade Love
The city intentionally maintains a lot of its older facades while rebuilding and renovating houses, such as here on the one of the major pedestrian squares.
Other than its beautiful facades, Brussels also features more questionable sights - the Little Pissing Man and the counterpart Little Pissing Joan are among those. The former being the original and something of a landmark in Belgium, with countless legends and stories surrounding its 400 year existence. The latter is a 1987 addition, and the artist once - jokingly or not - said it was a matter of gender equality. In 1999, a pissing bronze dog was added in the city as well, I visited and took a photo, but let’s say its artistic value is low and I want to keep this blog at a reasonably length… By now it’s just cats that must feel left out (or stand above such trivial displays of public indecency).
Strange Combinations
Replicas of the famous statue even adore - if one could say that - some of the shops selling another Belgian staple: Waffles. Together with beer and fries, these probably make up the most important local food items on the tourist menu. Indeed, Bruges is home to a fries museum (ask me how I know… 🍟❤️) although claims of the dish’s origin are disputed. French fries might be named this way for a reason, but we will probably never know.
The Black Tower
Another peculiar site is one of the best preserved remains of the first fortifications of Brussels from the 13th century - this tower is now surrounded by modern houses (and a construction site in front, making a good photo difficult).
Brussels is not short of churches, and the gothic / baroque Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula is probably its most impressive, to my untrained eye comparable to Notre Dame in Paris. I did not manage to visit, but here is the choir of the beautiful Church of Our Lady of Victories at the Sablon.
The Atomium
Admittedly the sight I was most excited to visit during this trip (aside from Waffles) was the centrepiece of the 1958 Brussels World's Fair and now the country’s most visited attraction. Although the original plan for the entire 102m structure to rest only on the central column turned out to be optimistic, it is still an impressive piece of architecture. Oddly, it was meant to only last for the period of the World Expo, but due to its popularity the authorities kept delaying its dismantling, finally deciding to retain it - a renovation in the mid 2000s refurbished the entire structure for a longer lifespan.
Six of the spheres are accessible to the public via elevators and escalators and used for exhibitions, audiovisual installations, and events - the ongoing installation had a very cool futuristic vibe and ethereal type music with some techno and trance elements, the composer of which I managed to find after some research.
Until 2015, the Atomium and its copyright society held a controversial policy forbidding even private individuals to show photos of the Atomium to anyone, which was finally overturned with the introduction of the Freedom of Panorama provision in Belgium.
Halle Gate
Brussels’ 14th-century fortified city gate looks like a small castle and houses a museum largely dedicated to its history and armed conflicts.
Although Brussels is home to the European Parliament I didn’t spend any time in the so-called European district other than driving through. Next up, we left towards Gent, with an early morning stop in the famous Hallerbos forest, owing to its carpet of bluebell flowers meant to bloom around this time of the year. Well, supposedly, but it seems they were a little late that year, and the rainy weather also didn’t help with the atmosphere.
Hallerbos Forest
A sea of purple and white flowers, if you’re lucky and find the right spots…
I could definitely see the potential for this to be a beautiful place for photography in the right conditions - or obviously just take a walk in nature. Although the forest was almost empty when we visited, there was parking setup for 100s of cars in the open areas and fields surrounding the trees, which I suspect when filled would make it a less peaceful experience.
Ghent
Although it was only one very rainy single afternoon we got to spend in Ghent, I could imagine this being a very pretty city to visit. Its centre is car-free (a new trend in many European cities), features plenty of well-preserved medieval architecture, a quaint river promenade, and a castle from the 12th century.
Ghent features the tallest belfry in Belgium, seen here in the distance on the right, with Saint Nicholas Church in the foreground.
Gravensteen Castle
The 12th century castle was a central point of the Ghent World Fair of 1913 and hosted its last (not so violent) battle in 1949 when 138 students from the local university occupied the castle over a new tax on beer - unsuccessfully.
All in all, photography here was barely possible and after getting soaked and talking a last walk through the city’s Graffiti-filled Werregarenstraatje, it was time to move on to Bruges after just a few hours, but Genth might be a place to re-visit for a bit longer.
Welcome to
Bruges
The rain cleared soon after we arrived and revealed some of the blue hour beauty of the northern port city’s streets and canals, including its landmark Belfry. The entire city centre is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe, and a UNESCO site.
Facades in an around the “Markt” area, the Bruges’ central square, originally established around the 11th century, when Bruges became the capital of the County of Flanders. Today it’s still the main city of the West Flanders province in the Flemish region of Belgium.
I was unable to find any cats here, but I guess it was to be expected given that it’s a clothing store.
Religious Artifacts
Bruges is also home to a number of coveted religious artifacts, the primary one located in the Basilica of the Holy Blood, seen on the right: It houses the relic of the Holy Blood, brought to the city as part of the crusades in 1150. It’s one of a few such proclaimed relics containing traces of the blood of Jesus, mostly lacking veracity as to their authenticity (either way). The vial seen on the left is shown to the public for a few minutes daily and contains a cloth that shows drops of blood allegedly coming from Jesus Christ.
Following the trail of the relic takes you down a curious path - its home plays a role in the movie “In Bruges”, but the actual filming location in the movie was a private church shown below, resembling the footprint of Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
This church, built by an Italian emigrant from a rich merchant family called Anselm Adornes in the 15th century, contains its own precious Jesus artifact: a piece of wood taken from the cross he was crucified on. Again, one of many around the world, with varying degrees of historical accuracy supporting the claim.
Madonna & Child
Continuing with another piece of historic significant, the gothic Church of Our Lady is home to the only Michelangelo statue taken out of Italy while he was alive: the white marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child created around 1504. Its backstory is quite interesting, as it was twice recovered after being looted by foreign occupiers (the French and the Nazis).
Boniface Bridge
A more touristy landmark is this little bridge, which in fact isn’t particularly noteworthy nor matches the age of the medieval buildings in the city (it’s from the early 1900s) - but the only time you find it this empty is on a very early morning, when this cat was the only visitor.
Windmills
Although the neighboring Netherlands are more famous for windmills, Bruges has a rich history of mills, but only 8 are left today.
Legends
Our last activity in Bruges? Attending a game at Club Bruges, the city’s legendary decorated club, founded in 1891.
Caves of Remouchamps
One last stop on the way back was the Caves of Remouchamps in the eastern part of the country, discovered in 1828.
Some sources attribute the longest underground navigable river in the world to the caves, but I suspect there might be some caveats to this, given its competitors in Mexico and the Philippines. Regardless, the many stalagmites and stalactite formations and the boat trip through the narrow 700m long Rubicon river are a worthwhile experience.
And that’s the end of a 5 days roadtrip from the south of Germany through some of the major cities and sights of Belgium.
